‘Every Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.